Jaeger-LeCoultre

2017′s Best Double Tourbillon Watches

Quite a few luxury watch brands turned heads at Geneva this year. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) horology exhibition is an event every wealthy gentleman has marked in his calendar for a chance to pinpoint his next wrist toy.  Double tourbillons were particularly prominent at the exhibition and a few models stood out from the sea of luxury and exquisite craftsmanship.

Jaeger-LeCoultre moved into a new and daring direction with the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time. A platinum watch is hardly understated, but it’s a peculiar move from a brand known so well for its bling. It has completely stripped it down to a classic-looking dial, which hides a complicated tourbillon movement within a tourbillon.

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Another strong statement comes from Audemars Piguet in the form of their Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The Maison debuted a monochrome perpetual calendar in the watch world’s material of the moment: ceramic. No gold. No platinum. No diamonds. Just one minimalistic case of the world’s most fragile material with a price available on request.

Audemars Piguet

IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph is the latest tourbillon model from the brand and it’s a step up from its predecessor. Its gold-cased design lets wearers precisely set the time to the very second. For a price of about $110,000 the buyer receives a balanced combination of the 3 complications on the clean, silver plated dial with applied Arabic numerals.

IWC Da Vinci

Panerai developed the Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days 49mm in search of lightness and architectural austerity. The used carbotech material has been utilized a high point. This makes the latest LAB-ID Luminor the brand’s most functional dive watch yet. Plus, it features a dial made from the world’s ‘blackest black’.

Panerai LAB-ID Luminor

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotier Celestial Astronominal Grand Complication 3600 is a novelty option that will surely impress. With an eye-watering price tag, the Les Cabinotier offers a sunrise and sunset complication; moonphase; and a Zodiac, equinox and solstice display – all housed in a white gold case.

Vacheron Constantin Les

Patek Philippe Reference 5531R

Special Edition – The Patek Philippe Reference 5531R World Time Minute Repeater

Swiss master watchmaker Patek Philippe held its ‘The Art Of Watches Grand Exhibition’ in New York. The Maison marked the momentous occasion with the launch of very special, limited edition timepieces. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R World Time Minute Repeater New York 2017 Special Edition watch stood out with its unique design and amazing new grand complication that melodiously chimes the time for any location in the world. This one-of-a-kind minute repeater introduces significant changes to Patek Philippe’s traditional watchmaking process.

For the first time in the watchmaking world, Patek Philippe Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater brings the rare combination of minute repeater and world time complications together in a single case. The functional mechanical connection between the repeater and the world time complication allows it to chime the local time anywhere in the world.

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The new model comes in two versions, each in a limited series of just five pieces. Retailing price for the all-new grand complication watch is $561,341.

The biggest difference between a traditional repeater and the reference 5531R is that the new model doesn’t have the hour snail isn’t indexed once per hour by the minute snail; instead it’s driven continuously by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. This allows it to accurately reflect local rather than home time.

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Another interesting alteration to the traditional mechanism, is an additional system that ensures that at the end of each hour, the watch will chime the time that the hands show at the end of the strike. The unique design means that instead of hearing five hour strikes, three quarter strikes, and 14 minute strikes as would be the case in a normal repeater, the wearer will instead hear only six hour strikes, which end exactly as the hands reach 6:00.

The watch boasts extra safety features– for example when the strike is activated, the world time mechanism is blocked to prevent any damage that might occur if the owner attempts to adjust the world time mechanism during chiming.

The Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle Watch01

The Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle Watch

Corum‘s iconic Golden Bridge watch debuted in 1980 in its original barrel-shaped case. Last year, the Swiss watchmaker introduced a redesigned version in a more traditional round case. At this year’s Baselworld fair, Corum revealed another variation of its signature Golden Bridge, in a new, Art Deco-influenced rectangular case.

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The Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle, like its round-cased predecessor has been designed by Dino Modolo. It boasts an eye-catching baguette-shaped, linear-oriented, manual-winding movement, Caliber CO113. The movement is designed to be visible in the center of the open dial with a high level of engraving and finishes on its 18k gold bridges and plate. It is surrounded on both sides by 18k gold elements that represent six Roman numerals whose curved shapes and rivets resemble the intricate architecture of a bridge. The movement’s timekeeping functions are on full display. The spring barrel at 6 o’clock feeds energy to the escapement at 12 o’clock. Caliber CO113 has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and a power reserve of 40 hours.

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The curved rectangular case sports a grooved winding crown at the bottom – a hallmark feature of Corum’s Bridges collection. Both are made of 5N 18k rose gold and measure 29.5 mm by 42.2 mm. The baton-shaped hour and minute hands are rhodium-plated and faceted. Both the front and back of the watch are covered with nonreflective sapphire crystals. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The strap is made of brown alligator leather with a triple-folding clasp made of rose gold. The price for the new Corum Golden Bridge Rectangle is $36,900.

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The Porsche Design Chronograph 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series

Porsche Design has unveiled it bet timepiece yet – the Chronograph 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series. It will accompany the new Porsche 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series – a powerful breathing performance car with a top speed of 330 km/h.

Porsche Design is the lifestyle brand synonymous with luxury clothing, eyewear, luggage and watches. Now, its new timepiece will coordinate with the 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series. The limited run of 500 cars will be offered by the famous Swabian car manufacturer later this year.

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A total of 500 chronographs will be manufactured to accompany the car and will be named the Porsche Design Chronograph 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series. Both the car and the watch can be further customized.

The new timepiece boasts the brand’s ‘first mechanical in-house movement’. The development of the movement, the calibre Werk 01.200, took over three years to complete. The chronograph features a flyback function, which is ideal for timing consecutive lap times or honing them to perfection.

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In keeping with Porsche’s reputation for lightweight performance cars, the movement’s barrel bridge is open-worked, which gives the chronograph a lightweight appearance. In addition to this, the adoption of this new design strategy allows the barrel bridge to reveal the flyback function and gear train.

The oscillating mass is affixed with a central locking nut, which bears the Porsche coat of arms – reminiscent of the appearance of a Porsche wheel rim. Would-be buyers can customize with gold accents on the rotor or, alternatively, a completely black ensemble.

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The carbon dial comes in regular Porsche colours, such as Golden Yellow Metallic, Carrara White, Agate Grey Metallic, Black, Graphite Blue Metallic and the iconic Guards Red. The timepiece is complemented by a titanium bracelet and two leather straps with titanium deployant buckles. The strap itself is made from the same leather and thread used for the seats of the 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series.

Porsche and Porsche Design will distribute the Chronograph 911 Turbo S Exclusive Series solely through Porsche Centres worldwide with a suggested retail price of $12,650 or €9,950.

The new Visionnaire Chronograph from Fabergé01

The new Visionnaire Chronograph from Faberge

Nearly a decade of work and five horologically significant patents went into the making of Fabergé’s latest creation – the exquisite calibre 6361, two of which have been specifically designed for the new chronograph movement of the Visionnaire Chronograph. It was designed in close collaboration with Agenhor, the Geneva-based movement specialist and master watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.

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The calibre 6361 offers instant-start indications thanks to a system of snail cams, fixed to the chronograph wheels. Its immaculate precision is courtesy of the patented AgenClutch, a completely novel, lateral-friction clutch that combines the smooth engagement of the modern vertical clutch with the flatness of the traditional system.

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The rotor is visible under the sapphire crystal ring that forms the outermost part of the dial. As the rotor spins and winds the watch, the radial lines on its surface reflect the light, adding a constant dynamism and motion in keeping with a sports complication.

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Water resistant to 50 metres, the Visionnaire Chronograph is available in two equally striking versions: the more elegant and neutral rose-gold case with grey opaline dial or the bolder black DLC treated ceramic case with black dial. Introduced at the Baselworld 2017, prices for the two models are $39,500 and $34,500, respectively.

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The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métrographe

Parmigiani Fleurier has revealed it new Tonda Métrographe and it’s just as impressive as its initial viewing at SIHH. The brand has combined mechanical prowess and elegant design in the steel-cased Tonda Métrographe. This latest version is defined by a more understated and highly legible dial. A few other faint tweaks put it right up next to big players like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, and other contenders in the (relatively) affordable category.

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The elegant new dial configuration is by far the most notable change. It now features a tachymeter scale and the date window has been repositioned to 12 o’clock. In addition to this, a double-hand semicircular running-seconds subdial has been incorporated at 3 o’clock. These latter two elements provide the piece with improved balance and legibility as well as a slightly dressier feel than its predecessor. The two-tone watch makes use of rose gold. The case’s design remains effectively unchanged but it boasts decreased thickness.

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The model is powered by Parmigiani’s PF315 self-winding calibre with a base movement that is developed and manufactured in-house and then fitted with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. In its black-dial-on-black-strap configuration, the easy answer is “with everything, all the time”. The Métrographe is versatile and elegant, making it a welcome addition to any wardrobe selection. The new Tonda Métrographe will become available in Parmigiani’s North American retailer network (as well as at their flagship boutique in Miami) as early as next month.

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The watch is available in two configurations—a white-dial version and the black variant shown—both on either a supple calf-leather strap ($11,500) or a bracelet ($12,000).

Chopard

Baselworld’s Jewelry Highlights

Baselworld is the most anticipated annual exhibition dedicated to watches and jewelry. Held in the Swiss city of Basel, it is the moment international Maisons use to debut their new collections and steal the spotlight with creative and exuberant designs. The 2017 edition of the exhibition includes daring new pieces from Eberhard & Co., Chopard and Faidee.

In keeping with spring, Chopard introduced its Green Carpet collection featuring high jewelry with responsibly mined Gemfield’s emeralds. Its For You watch collection embodies the definition of discreet luxury, offering fine and ready-to-wear pieces. Inspired by the delicate beauty of the cherry blossom, the two timepieces of the collection present delicate pear-shaped diamonds or emeralds around a brilliant-cut pistil.

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Fourth-generation jeweler Faidee known as a source for some of the world’s rarest Burmese rubies, unveiled the Grand Phoenix necklace comprised of 24 unheated Burmese Pigeon’s Blood rubies—the most coveted variety of rubies. Weighing nearly 80 carats, it is valued at about $35 million, and has more than 100 carats of D color grade diamonds. (faidee.com)

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Two new models celebrate Eberhard & Co’s 130th anniversary with the Chrono 4 (patented – registered design). This is the first and only chronograph in the history of watchmaking with four aligned counters, a veritable icon of the brand today.

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Both watches feature a new 42 mm diameter case that is framed by a bezel with circular satin finish; the crown, personalised with the number “130”. Three dial variants are available.

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Vacheron Constantin’s debuts the Ultimate Astronomic Watch

Vacheron Constantin has long set the standard for watches out of this world, but the brand’s ultimate astronomical super-complication is a piece that will leave no one indifferent to its class. The one-of-a-kind wristwatch Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astro­nomical Grand Complication 3600 is a double-sided mechanical wonder. Its price tag is also astronomical and comes at about $1 million, but it is justified.

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This is a piece of multiple qualities aside from the striking number of its complications, which the company has tallied at 23. They are also brilliantly themed and organized. The complications fall into three groups: civil (conventional) time and calendar functions, solar time, and sidereal time. As both solar and sidereal time vary slightly from civil time, each group of complications is driven by its own corrected gear train radiating from the movement’s central wheel for greater accuracy. The solar gear train drives functions includes a marching equation of time, sunrise and sunset times, length of day, and seasonal indications. These are all represented on the front dial with civil-time functions such as the perpetual calendar, moon phase, and an interesting tide indicator with a depiction of the sun, Earth, and lunar orbital positions.

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On the back of the astronomical super-complication are such celestial functions as a star chart composed of two rotating sapphire disks with a starry sky over the sandblast-finish movement plates. The watch’s remarkable compactness is even more noteworthy than its multiplicity of functions. At 45 mm in diameter and just 13.6 mm thick, the timepiece is the same size as most sports watches—a reality made possible through carefully designed components, some of which created with advanced photolithography fabrication techniques. However, this does not take away from the ease of reading the dial, which is a truly striking combination and one difficult to achieve.

The Sarpaneva Korona K0 Daredevil watch01

The Sarpaneva Korona K0 Daredevil watch

Sarpaneva Watches have far been from the average watch brand, and its new timepiece—the Korona K0 Daredevil Dawn—pays homage to the spirit of fearlessness and strong masculine energy that drives you to victory.

Sarpaneva is a name that is highly revered in all hardcore watch-collecting communities. The brand’s rich history in the jewelry business eased its transition in the world of watchmaking. Its bold vision and precise craftsmanship shows in the latest timepiece that is aggressive and outspoken, all while paying proper homage to his roots.

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Limited to only 20 examples in each of its two dial configurations—Dawn and Dusk—the Sarpaneva Daredevil has a distinctive appeal. The design is elaborate and original. The first two dial layers are made of precision-cut skeletonized stainless steel, and the second is treated in a vibrant shade of blue diamond like coating (DLC). Below them is a three-segment base plate of vibrant bright Super LumiNova supplied by RC Tritec AG. The heavy application of luminous material keeps the Daredevil easy to read even in dim light. The obvious Captain America vibe to the dial’s red, white, and blue color scheme with a central white star, is in fact a nod to the legendary Evel Knievel rather than the Marvel superhero.

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The $10,000 watch does not feature an in-house movement. With a 46 mm case diameter and 11.2 mm thickness, the Daredevil is a bit large on the wrist. It includes two variations – with a black leather strap, and a crisp white rally strap that makes a much more bold and statement. The Dusk variation swaps has a dark gunmetal shade of gray instead of the vibrant blue, and also comes with a black or white rally strap.

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Watches of the Week

The world of horological marvels has been taken by storm again by two of the most renowned Maisons in recent weeks. Ahead of the annual Baselworld event that brings together connoisseurs of fine technical pieces and the world’s most reputable watchmakers – Zenith and Jaeger-LeCoultre have a pleasant surprise for their rich clientele.

The Master Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre was released just in time to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the ever-popular line that collectors and enthusiasts have always been passionate about. The new piece makes a strong statement with its vintage charm, superb case proportions, stunning sector dials, and clever skeletonized hands. Powered by the brand’s Caliber 751G automatic movement, the Master Chronograph retains the same fonts, case proportions, and pusher design as the outgoing model, but it capitalizes on the eye-catching two-tone silver dials. It is refreshingly adaptable and retails for $8,000.

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With the unveiling of the Pilot Extra Special Chronograph in Bronze, Zenith is keeping momentum ahead of Baselworld. The high-frequency 4069 automatic column-wheel chronograph calibre pairs nicely with the significant presence of the case.

zenith-heritage-pilot-extra-special-chronograph-01When it comes to large pilot watches – Zenith knows how to combine overpowering style with sturdy functionality and the Pilot Extra Special Chronograph is no exception. Wiith a retail price of $7,100, Zenith will be taking pre-orders on the new piece as of the start of Baselworld next month.

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